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cichlidman
Joined: 10 Dec 2006 Posts: 8 Location: Long Island, NY
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Posted: Sat 23 Dec, 2006 10:57 am |
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I will post some pics soon. Many of the branches are turning brown and are dieing. I want to wrap them in xmas lights like suggested to heat the roots. but unfortunately my wife is flipping out and thinks i'm going to burn down the house. I even tried a heating blanket and she wont budge... ugh.
I think ill take them to my moms house and heat them up there. I guess i shouldn't worry about the slow release fertilizer. thanks again for all the help. I will post me results if i get any. |
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Skeeter Moderator
Joined: 23 Jul 2006 Posts: 2218 Location: Pensacola, FL zone 9
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Posted: Sun 24 Dec, 2006 1:00 pm |
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I did a test with small lights last night-- soil temp was a little above 60 at the start around 8 pm-- it was 78 around 10 pm in the pot with lights ( 1 gallon pot). Ambient pot temp this morning was 57 while the pot with lights was 75-- temp of a pot adjacent to the lights was about 60. Measurement were take about midway between the side and center.
As for your wife's concerns, I don't see much risk in the light strings that are sold nowdays--they have fuses in the plugs that will not allow shorts or overheating-- otherwise I'm sure there would be many houses in danger.
Skeet |
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BabyBlue11371 Site Admin
Joined: 28 Nov 2005 Posts: 830 Location: SE Kansas
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Posted: Tue 26 Dec, 2006 3:44 am |
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maybe plugging them in to a power strip surge protector would help ease Mrs. mind?? Last yr I had all of my Plant Christmas lights plugged in to a power strip surge protector I had used for computer.. I don't do lights much and worried about them being on while I was asleep.. the power strip surge protector did ease my mind..
Just an idea...
Hope they bounce back for you!!
Gina *BabyBlue* _________________
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Skeeter Moderator
Joined: 23 Jul 2006 Posts: 2218 Location: Pensacola, FL zone 9
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Posted: Tue 26 Dec, 2006 9:43 pm |
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For others that might use the small lights -- I should add that I used the garland type string with about 3 to 4 lights per inch-- I actually only went around the "test" pot twice and left the rest of the string to go between some other pots-- even the temperature in the other pots was elevated at least 5 degrees F.
For me I think I will keep using the lights since it should help maintain root growth at night eventhough I don't need them to prevent winter leaf drop.
Skeet |
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cichlidman
Joined: 10 Dec 2006 Posts: 8 Location: Long Island, NY
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Posted: Fri 29 Dec, 2006 5:33 am |
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I agree about the lights not being a problem. im a tech head and know all about how safe it is... shes a pain because she wont even let me try a heated blanket... ugh I have them in the boiler room now.
as far as an update. 1 of the trees is doing great and so far it should bounce back very soon. however the other two trees are getting worse. most of the limbs are dieing. I dont have much confidence in them anymore. |
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cichlidman
Joined: 10 Dec 2006 Posts: 8 Location: Long Island, NY
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Posted: Thu 04 Jan, 2007 6:42 pm |
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I have good news for anyone interested in my little struggle.
2 out of the 3 trees are doing well now. and are finally starting to bud new leaves. Im excited and will post pics when i have more success.
Thanks to all who have helped out!
I guess i posted too soon about them prob. not making it. |
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justjoan Citruholic
Joined: 18 Apr 2006 Posts: 335 Location: Brooklyn Park Mn Zone 4A
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Posted: Fri 05 Jan, 2007 11:40 am |
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YEAH TREES! I was hoping you would hang in there with them, you must be giving them the right TLC. Congratulations and thanks for not giving up! _________________
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Skeeter Moderator
Joined: 23 Jul 2006 Posts: 2218 Location: Pensacola, FL zone 9
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Posted: Fri 05 Jan, 2007 1:08 pm |
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2 out of 3 is not bad--maybe the other one will show some life yet.
Skeet |
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gregn Citruholic
Joined: 15 Oct 2006 Posts: 236 Location: North Vancouver, BC, Canada
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Posted: Sun 07 Jan, 2007 2:18 am |
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Do grow lights really replace natural light or just suppliment it? I too use grow lights ( 4' flouresent tubes X4) however, i do have a south facing window but little direct sunlight at this time of year (neighbors house is in the way)
As far as the light, having a plant in a otherwise dark room with just a grow light - would that be enough ?
Greg _________________ Gregn, citrus enthusiast. North Vancouver Canada. USDA zone 8. I grow In-ground citrus, Palms and bananas. Also have container citrus |
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valenciaguy Citruholic
Joined: 24 May 2006 Posts: 340 Location: Southern Ontario, Zone 6a
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Posted: Sun 07 Jan, 2007 3:33 am |
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usually the only ones that will replace natural light is grow lights from a hydroponic or specialty store, or have a 6400 kelvin output but grow lights at department stores are usually just to enhance the look of your plants. Also aquarium flouresences lights work too. |
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gregn Citruholic
Joined: 15 Oct 2006 Posts: 236 Location: North Vancouver, BC, Canada
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Posted: Sun 07 Jan, 2007 3:46 am |
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Thanks for the information...I should have known - most people who grow plants inside around here bypass the electrical meter. (they are Not growing oranges!) There are plenty of hydroponic stores in Vancouver, but i have never been in one to ask questions.
G. _________________ Gregn, citrus enthusiast. North Vancouver Canada. USDA zone 8. I grow In-ground citrus, Palms and bananas. Also have container citrus |
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Skeeter Moderator
Joined: 23 Jul 2006 Posts: 2218 Location: Pensacola, FL zone 9
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Posted: Sun 07 Jan, 2007 2:45 pm |
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There are two factors to be considered in comparing artificial light to sunlight-- wavelength and intensity.
The Grow Lights do provide a spectrum of light that is broader than normal fluorescent lights---they have more of the red end. However, plants can generally use any of the light produced by artificial light.
Sunlight actually produces light above and below the wavelengths that can be used by plants called Photosynthetically Active Radiation or PAR.
Light meters that read PAR intensity will show values above 2000 micro-moles/meter sq/sec during the middle of a clear day. Indoors, under typical fluorescent lighting, that value will be in the range of 20.
In commercial growth chambers with 8 ft bulbs every few inches and an 8 ft ceiling, the value at counter top level will be over 100.
It is interesting to note that during a really dark cloudy day the PAR value outdoors is still typically between 100 to 200. So it is difficult to supply artificial light at the intensity of natural sunlight, however, fortunatly for us, the photosynthetic apparatus of most plants become saturated at levels far below the maximum values found outdoors.
Skeet |
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Millet Citruholic
Joined: 13 Nov 2005 Posts: 6656 Location: Colorado
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Posted: Sun 07 Jan, 2007 4:19 pm |
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Skeet, nice post In further support of Skeet's view, consider that the saturation point of light for a citrus leaf, (the maximum amount of light a citrus leaf is capable of using) in photosynthesis to produce energy, is in the range of 3000 foot candles (650 PAR), whereas full sun in most areas of North America is 10,000 foot-candles or more. Again, still another way of saying the same thing is that citrus only uses approximately 1/3 of the sun light that falls upon the leaf's surface, additional light does not help a citrus tree to produce more energy (food). - Millet |
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gregn Citruholic
Joined: 15 Oct 2006 Posts: 236 Location: North Vancouver, BC, Canada
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Posted: Mon 08 Jan, 2007 4:58 am |
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Thanks for the info...I guess i missed that day in science class _________________ Gregn, citrus enthusiast. North Vancouver Canada. USDA zone 8. I grow In-ground citrus, Palms and bananas. Also have container citrus |
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