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Need help saving this peach tree. (grafting related)

 
Citrus Growers Forum Index du Forum -> Fruit & Tropicals other than citrus
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jsvand5
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Posted: Fri 08 May, 2009 1:25 am

One of my animals almost totally girdled this tree. There is only one small strip on the side not shown in the pic that is still connected. Maybe 2%-3% of the total area is left that has not been stripped. I can't imagine that will be enough area for this thing to survive Is their any way aside from trying to find a rootstock and doing an approach graft onto it for me to save this thing? I have heard of a bridge graft but I don't know much about it. The worst part is that the damage is right at the graft line so I can't even just top it. I would like to do a approach graft, but I have no idea where to even begin to look for a source for a suitable rootstock (needs to be fire blight resistant since I am in FL). Thanks for any info.


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gdbanks
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Posted: Fri 08 May, 2009 3:22 am

I am no grafting pro but going off of something you wrote. Cant you take a section of the bark from below or above the damage and make the bridge graft? Though this would still have a large damaged section but it may save the tree.

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morphinelover
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Posted: Fri 08 May, 2009 10:41 am

jsvand5 wrote:
One of my animals almost totally girdled this tree. There is only one small strip on the side not shown in the pic that is still connected. Maybe 2%-3% of the total area is left that has not been stripped. I can't imagine that will be enough area for this thing to survive Is their any way aside from trying to find a rootstock and doing an approach graft onto it for me to save this thing? I have heard of a bridge graft but I don't know much about it. The worst part is that the damage is right at the graft line so I can't even just top it. I would like to do a approach graft, but I have no idea where to even begin to look for a source for a suitable rootstock (needs to be fire blight resistant since I am in FL). Thanks for any info.



The very first thing I would do is to cut the tree back so that it isn't having to supply as much water and nutrients because there isn't much of a cambium left. The tree will probably survive if you do this. It will slowly start growing and the damaged part will heal. Another thing is if you do decide to just get another peach rootstock and start over you won't have to worry about fireblight because that isn't a problem with peaches, only apples and pears mainly.
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turtleman
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Posted: Fri 08 May, 2009 11:27 am

Is the damage completely around the stalk?
If it were me I'd take a bud/scion from above the damage and bud that below the damage, either T-Bud or a small cleft, One way or the other I'd end up cutting the damage off
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jsvand5
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Posted: Fri 08 May, 2009 11:41 am

turtleman wrote:
Is the damage completely around the stalk?
If it were me I'd take a bud/scion from above the damage and bud that below the damage, either T-Bud or a small cleft, One way or the other I'd end up cutting the damage off


Yea it goes completely around. I did do a T bud last night with one of the few buds I could find that still seemed dormant, but I was really hoping to find a way to save the top of the tree. Going from a new T bud will probably set me back two years. I just did the T bud like I would with citrus. Do you know if that should work? I am a little pessimistic about my chances with it but I guess I'll know soon enough.
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jsvand5
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Posted: Fri 08 May, 2009 11:45 am

One other question. If I am able to keep it alive will the cambium evetually try to repair itself and grow together or is it a once it's gone it's gone type thing.
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morphinelover
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Posted: Fri 08 May, 2009 2:55 pm

jsvand5 wrote:
One other question. If I am able to keep it alive will the cambium evetually try to repair itself and grow together or is it a once it's gone it's gone type thing.

Yea, eventually the damaged part will grow together and you will barely be able to see where there was damage. Turtleman, that was a good idea about t-budding below the damaged part, I didn't think about that. Don't worry about having to start all over with a small tree if you t-bud it because based on my experience if you graft a older, large tree with a extensive root system it will grow to the height it was when you cut it back within a matter of no time.
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morphinelover
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Posted: Fri 08 May, 2009 2:59 pm

Also, I can't tell based on the picture but if the damage is above the graft union then you could cut off down past the damaged part and it will develop growth just like if you t-budded it. Something to consider.
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JoeReal
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Posted: Fri 08 May, 2009 3:39 pm

Bridge grafting is as easy as bark grafting and T-budding combined. Essentially do a normal T-cut on the bottom stem and an inverted T on the top stem. Then get a small stem from the top, cut to length to be able to connect the T-cuts and prepare both ends like you would do for T-bark and insert that stick into the two T-cuts.

When I have the time, if ever, I would make such a tutorial.
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jsvand5
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Posted: Fri 08 May, 2009 4:12 pm

Thanks, Ill give it a try after work. From what I have read, every site says it must be done when the tree is dormant. Can it still work when it is actively growing?
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JoeReal
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Posted: Fri 08 May, 2009 4:16 pm

jsvand5 wrote:
Thanks, Ill give it a try after work. From what I have read, every site says it must be done when the tree is dormant. Can it still work when it is actively growing?


Yes! You can even use the non-dormant wood as your bridge as long as you do it immediately. And I have also mentioned in several of my tutorials that grafting can be done year round, in our zone, just vary the technique. When using non-dormant wood, treat it like you would use citrus scionwood. But of course, citrus scionwood is more resilient than the non-dormant deciduous scionwood that is why the urgency to graft immediately as soon as you get the bridge-graft material.
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jsvand5
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Posted: Fri 08 May, 2009 9:15 pm

Thanks for all the help. I tried doing 2 bridges. I guess I'll know in a few weeks if they are successful. How long can a tree survive after being fully girdled like mine? I think I am going to order another tropic snow peach just in case. I'll keep this one as a potted tree. There is a nursery by me that carries a ton of different peach trees, but tropic snow is the one variety they don't carry. Sucks having to pay the high online price again, but the tropic snow was the reason I decided to buy peach trees.
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JoeReal
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Posted: Fri 08 May, 2009 9:28 pm

usually girdled tree branches lasts one season, just until they bear fruits and then they conk out. But it depends on the cultivar and size of tree as well, as to how much energy they have reserved on roots. In fact the girdling can increase the size and quality of fruits and has been used on branches of grapes and citruses. And the girdled branches are pruned off right after the fruits are harvested. But a girdling on main tree trunk, it could kill a younger tree quickly if sprouts don't show up on the side to feed the roots. The bridge graft provides the necessary energy supplies to the roots via the phloem vessels which has been girdled.
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