http://pubs.caes.uga.edu/caespubs/pubcd/B818.htm#Budwood

Non-citrus, but techniques are pretty much the same.

Skeet,
I was just looking over the topic here. (tutorials) and realized where I got this link.. Before I went out and grafted my peach, plum, apple and mom's persimmon I used this link (saved in my favorites) to look up best techniques and time to graft each of these..
I don't always remeber where I get a link.. glad I came back to this and can thank you for posting it.. it was most helpful!!!

Gina *BabyBlue*

Gina, glad it helped you-- I was just reviewing it in preparation for grafting my persimmon that Joe sent me scion wood for. The tree is still dormant and Joe says I need to wait until the buds break on persimmons.

I hope all your grafts are successful.

Good plums and peaches are difficult to grow here, I really miss the plum I had when I lived in NC--I would let them get so ripe that you could bite a hole in the skin and suck everything out except the seed. They were delicious!

that is strange your trees buds are not breaking.. wonder if they wake up slower there due to milder winter?? my mom's has buds all over it.. seems like most every thing here is bustin out in buds now..
first sign of warmer weather here tends to get everything looking like spring.. weather is so nice now that I have been in shorts for a few days.. been working on the pond getting it in tip top running condition and all cleaned out..

Gina *BabyBlue*

Skeet,

If you have looked at the pictorial demo of bark grafting, there is a discussion there about bark grafting persimmons several pages down. I did more than 18 bark grafts on my persimmon tree last year, 100% take, and a bonus is that I got to harvest full-sized quality fruits on some of the grafts that same year. If did the grafting some other time, it would have been less successful. I did the tongue and whip, cleft, chip, T-budding, only about 33% success, but with the bark grafting at the exact timing I have indicated and the same technique that I have shown in the pictorial, it has been 100%. Most importantly, the bark graft will take some time to grow, so you will have to conitnuously rub off any growth below the graft union until the graft grows. With persimmon grafting, timing is almost everything. The next best time to graft persimmon is during the fall, and chip budding would be my method of choice.


Joe

Skeeter wrote:

Gina, glad it helped you-- I was just reviewing it in preparation for grafting my persimmon that Joe sent me scion wood for. The tree is still dormant and Joe says I need to wait until the buds break on persimmons. I hope all your grafts are successful. Good plums and peaches are difficult to grow here, I really miss the plum I had when I lived in NC--I would let them get so ripe that you could bite a hole in the skin and suck everything out except the seed. They were delicious!

Here's part of the old post last year:

I have added about 18 new persimmon cultivars to one tree, all of them bark grafted using this method. I also added a combo T-bud below some of my bark grafts, for those cultivars that reliable friends have told me of their really low success rates with them. By using both methods, bark and T-bud combo, it increases my chances of successfully adding even the difficult cultivars.

Notice very clearly that the leaves are breaking out when I bark-grafted. This is to insure proper bark slipping, easy operation and quick graft healing.


And here's the grafts sometime later, 18 kinds added to this tree, 2006. 100% take and all growing strong.



Note that some have fruitlets already. I got really nice big quality fruits from these new grafts sometime in September. Although the stock have harvestable fruits since mid August, the total harvest of all cultivars lasted until December.




And here's the link to the tutorial.
link


If there's something unclear about the recommended method, I'd gladly explain. This has really worked the best for persimmons, and the evidence is right before your eyes, no camera tricks or graphics manipulation.

Of course we can always experiment with other types of grafting and share the results. But if the scionwood is not common or hard to obtain, I would shoot for the methodology that would work best for the specific cultivar type.

Once you got it to take and vigorously growing, then you can try other grafts and see what happens.

I have done what was called a bark graft on pecan, but it was a little different-- I had 1 out of 4 take. The main difference was that the stock bark was cut in 2 parallel cuts that were the width of the scion (the instructions did not include your edge trimming--I'm sure that would have helped a lot). The bark strip was lifted and the scion inserted and then a small nail was used to attach the scion through both the bark and the scion into the stock. I was putting 1/2 inch scion onto 3 inch stock.

I think the persimmon is still dormant because the ground around it is shaded by fences on the east and south sides. It is definitly still live.

Wait for the first tiny leaf to open on the branch you want to graft on. This will make sure the bark is easy to work on to open the flap after one straight along the axis cut through the bark. While making the incision, it is alright to push the knife hard to make sure you cut the bark and scar the woody core underneath. This would also encourage cambial healing.