What is the difference between the Myers and New Myers lemon and is there any way to distinguish between the two?
Thanks Karl

The New and Improved is nothing different than the old except that the New is certified virus free clone that was found and propagated.

Not to be picky, but in case you want to look up information -- it's spelled 'Meyer' lemon and "Improved Meyer" lemon (I put the latter in double quotes since it's a nickname, rather than an official cultivar name).

To continue with what Joe was saying -- All of the original stock of 'Meyer' was infected with a nasty strain of citrus tristeza virus. Indeed, for years it was illegal to possess/grow it in California, and it's thought to be one of the sources of the CTV currently in Florida. Since 'Meyer' does not come true-to-type from seed, it was difficult to eradicate the virus from it, but it was eventually done (both in CA and Fla., independently) by shoot-tip-micrografting. I suspect because of the legal implications, it was given the "improved" name in California. In Florida, it is usually still just called 'Meyer', but under State law, only the virus-free one can be propagated and sold.

Malcolm is correct that California and Florida were able to isolate and propagate virus free clones of Meyer. I would like to add, also perhaps from faulty memory, about some article that I've read that indeed there was one planted Meyer somewhere in California that predates the virus free isolation, and that tree was found to be virus free and at one point was suspected to be the original donor for virus free Meyers but it was not called as Improved Meyer then. The virus free Meyers that were derived from micropropagation were called Improved Meyer, as you already know that, but for short, some sellers simply call them Meyeri (prononunced as Meyer eye).

The guy at the nursery told me that the new Meyer lemon would survive a cold snap and grow back from the roots. After seeing the doubtful look on my face , he insisted that it was a fact. This can’t be possible can it?
Darn spell check didn’t help a bit on Meyer.

Define cold snap. My Meyers have endured 20 deg F with little damage, but that year I wouldn't call a cold snap as it was very gradual. The arctic blast that occured in spring was one true cold snap, went from lows of 48 to lows of 30 deg F in a single day, very damaging to the leaves and growth spurts including my kumquats.

If grown on it's own roots, Meyer is known to come back from below the ground. Actually, a bud or two which was below ground and did not freeze. You can help this by covering part of the stem with soil, or some other insulator. This will ensure that enough of the lemon remains to produce new growth. This works with young budded trees also, if the tree is covered above the graft, so that the scion is protected.

Joe mentioned that his Meyer survived 20 degrees. I have one in the ground that has survived a brief dip to around 20 too, with no damage. The key word here is "brief dip".

I would have bet the farm with this guy, that a lemon tree would not survive even 20 degrees. Now, I am thinking that meyer lemons are not grafted to a different root stock. Would that assumption be correct? If so then after it grew again from near death, you could have something different.
Karl

You should be able to tell is it is grafted. The graft union should be clearly visible. If you have trouble figuring this out, take a closeup picture of the trunk from the ground to about 12 inches above ground and post it. If there is no trunk, you can assume it is rooted.

I would guess that it is from a rooted cutting. Most Myers are sold on their own roots, because they are easy to root and because they grow ok that way. Also, that is the cheapest way for the grower to propagate Meyer.

Most of the Meyer Lemons I see are grown as a "bush", and are on their own roots. When I see them as standards, they are normally grafted on some sort of lemon rootstock - if the rootstock is not known, I would assume one of the lemon rootstocks. I have recently put some on Flying Dragon to see if they would do better as a container plant that way.

Could I take a clipping and place in potting soil to propagate a new tree?
Karl

Yes, you can. If you have a misting system your seccess rate will be 85-95 percent. If you put the cutting in a container filled with a moist medium and covered by a plastic bag, your seccess rate will be 40-50 percent. Some varieties root easier than others. Select a firm, strong, but still green, six inch cutting, about the thickness of a pencil, wound the bottom two sides about a inch long, dip in a rooting hormone, make a hole to insert the cutting, place the cutting in the hole and firm the medium around it. Cover with a plastic bag, or put under mist, and wait for 3-5 weeks. When a VERY GENTLY pull will not dislodge the cutting rooting has begun. - Millet

haha... Maybe I just have good soil, but I can just stick them in the ground & leave them... 2-3 weeks later I have almost 100% takes...

All right! Let there be lemons. I am going to experiment this week.
thanks karl

Thats because your the Laaz! Us mortals are required to play by the rules. I remember the GIANT pot of plain DIRT, that the tree did well in. - Millet