I find that grafting a branch of Turnbull Giant Pear will make it super productive. I've got loads of Warren Pear by grafting Turnbull to it. Warren doesn't shed pollens, it is like the anthers are dead. Whereas, the Turnbull is shedding pollens a few hours after the flowers open, and are still shedding pollens after the petals have fallen. Turnbull is enough to pollenize my Harrow Delight and Comice as well.
There are very few true fireblight resistant pears, and one of them is the Ledbetter pear. The reason why the others seem to be fireblight resistant is because they bloom off season, or doesn't have nectars (thus bacteria won't colonize the flowers), doesn't have pollens to attract honeybees, so they seldom get contaminated. To test if they are true fireblight resistant is you introduce the bacteria to the pear, and most of the pears don't have resistance. Most have avoidance though.
There are a few fireblight tolerant pears, such as the Kiefer pear. It can get infected but able to survive it and still be productive.
A spray of copper sulfate or kocide every three days starting from first opening of petals to last petal fall will tremendously help control fireblight of pears and apples. To minimize spraying, there is a public spreadsheet program from Washington State University that determines the likelihood of fireblight outbreak and you spray when the treshold is about to be crossed.