Last fall I got a 'Brewster' Lychee tree. It gradually lost most of it's leaves over the winter...OK, no problem. When it leafed out this spring, many of the emerging leaves dried up and fell off. Others became brown and crisp around the edges.

Well, after talking to a Florida nursery and doing some reading, I think I know why. Emerging lychee leaves are unusually sensitive to wind. I had an oscillating fan on the middle of the greenhouse area where 'Brewster' was planted in a ground bed. Every ten seconds the fan blew across the tree. The nurseryman said that would be enough to wreck the leaves.

He also said that of all the subtropicals and tropical trees they grow (and it's Pine Island Nursery, they grow a lot), the lychee is the one plant unusually sensitive to overfertilization. Too much fert and the leaves just go brown, starting at the edges.

The good news is that I removed the fan and I'm getting another growth flush right now. Further, the tree flowered (apparently I met its mild chill requirement) and I have a small number of baby lychee fruit. I have my fingers crossed.

Robert

Thanks for the info.
I have a Lychee planted on the ground but it is not doing very well.
I may have over fertilize it.
How about watering , are they very sensitive on that too?

Hi Benny,

I have not noted any unusual sensitivity to over or under watering. My tree is in a ground bed in the greenhouse, not in container. I asked the Pine Island dude how they fare in containers, all he said was that I would be better off with the tree in a ground bed. He did not mention any particular needs with regard to watering; he did go on and on about over fertilizing.

Another internet source I found said feed only at flowering and after harvest. (My emphasis added)

Robert

Thanks Robert.

Benny

Benny, while doing some research this morning, I found this reference from the CRFG site:

Location: Lychees need full sun, but young trees must be protected from heat, frost and high winds.

Soil: The tree needs a well-drained soil that is rich in organic matter. A soil pH between 5.5 and 7.5 is acceptable, but plants grow much better in soils with a pH at the low end of this range. Apply a thick layer of organic mulch to the soil after planting.

Irrigation: The lychee will not tolerate standing water, but requires very moist soil, so water the tree regularly when it is growing actively. The trees are very sensitive to damage from salts in the soil or in water. Leach the soil regularly in the Southwest.

Fertilization: Young trees tend to grow slowly, and many gardeners tend to give them too much fertilizer in an attempt to push them along. Young trees should receive only light applications of a complete fertilizer. Mature trees are heavier feeders and should be fertilized regularly from spring to late summer. Use fertilizers formulated for acid-loving plants. Chelated iron and soil sulfur may be necessary in areas with alkaline soils.

Robert:
Thanks for your research.
I did everything almost the opposite what it requires. No wonder it is not doing so well.
It was growing beautifully always lush and lots of new growth when it was planted in the pot but it outgrew the pot so I transplanted it on the ground and that's when the problem started.
I must have overfertilized it for one thing.
I was preparing to transfer it to a wine barrel and in coconut husk.
Anybody has any input ?

During a OC/CRFG club tour of Cal Poly Pomona's Agriscape's orchards,
Dr. Greg Partida said that Lychees and Longans will produce
more fruit if the flowers are kept in a humid atmosphere by
foggers. Have a station of your irrigation timer turn on the foggers
during the daylight hours and off at night.
Once fruit has set, remove the foggers for the year.

Oh, and don't plant Citrus under Date Palms. Dates want a lot
more water than citrus and will shade them.