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issue with some new and repotted trees

 
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brianPA2
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Location: Southeastern Pennsylvania (6b)

Posted: Sat 25 May, 2013 8:33 pm

I have a mix of new trees from Home Depot and Fourwinds. The bareroot fourwinds trees were potted in peat/cedar mulch mix with some perlite added. The home depot trees I had hastily placed in 2" larger containers with the same soil mix to fill the out, though one is now in a rootmaker that Millet was kind enough to provide to me. They are all lined up on a southern exposure with the pots mostly shielded behind a wall.


One of the fourwinds trees, a Eustis Limequat, arrived with somewhat mottled yellow between the veins (which remain green) over the whole tree. I contacted Fourwinds with pictures and they responded that it is likely slow fertilizer uptake. I have applied a 1tsp/gal miracid plus 1tsp/gal of 10% chelated iron twice to roots in the past few weeks. I did not see any change, and yesterday sprayed the leaves with 1/4tsp/gal of a 20-14-18 orchid fert which contains micronutrients (N = 10% ammonia, 10% nitrate, no urea). Today it looks somewhat worse, with tiny yellow spots on the leaves. Any idea what may be wrong? I am worried I may be messing with it too much. It looks healthy aside from the coloration.

This is how the limequat looked a couple days after I received it



And this is how it looks today



The Home Depot trees had all blown over at the store and had broken branches when I bought them but they were hard to pass up. I noticed that the three which I had hastily repotted looked somewhat wilted despite ample water. I pulled them out of the pots and noticed that they were a lot more pot bound than I realized at first. I dipped them in a bucket of water and started gently teasing the roots loose and getting all the old medium out and uncircling the roots. I removed about 90% of the dirt and found the center of the root mass was mostly dry and the pile of old soil was full of dead roots. There were still a large amount of roots remaining on the tree, with some white tips. I potted the now bare-root trees in peat/cedar/perlite mix and watered them thoroughly. They have very good drainage. However today I found that one still feels like the leaves are drying out and some have wilted new and old foliage. I expected some root damage as a result of the aggressive soil removal but I figured that it was better than leaving the compacted ball that were originally there. Are these likely to recover or do you think I went to far?

This is how the roots looked on all the HD trees when I got them a few weeks ago


The owari still has curled leaves that feel very dry, same as before


The new growth on this meyer lemon is very wilted starting today


The weather the past couple nights has been ~45F and it was very windy today. I am wondering if the combination of the this and the repotting has just stressed them. I worry about direct sun burning the pots but it may be that they are simply too cold?
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Sugar Land Dave
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Location: Sugar Land, TX Zone 9a

Posted: Sun 26 May, 2013 1:19 am

Hi Brian,

You may possibly be doing to much too fast. These trees actually look in pretty fair shape. Slow and easy is my advice; let them adjust. I'm sure some of the others will be along shortly with some other tips.

Here is a picture of one that I rescued from home depot. It gets better every day, but it still takes time.

http://www.imagestime.com/show.php/856898_GrapefruitTreeComparedRevised.jpg.html



http://www.imagestime.com/show.php/856893_GrapefruitTreeCompared2Revised.jpg.html


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Millet
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Posted: Sun 26 May, 2013 2:19 am

The very first picture is showing a manganese deficiency. Manganese deficiency first shows up on the new leaves with green veins AND WITH green border areas to the sides of the veins, on otherwise a yellowish leaf. - Millet
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brianPA2
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Location: Southeastern Pennsylvania (6b)

Posted: Sun 26 May, 2013 3:31 am

Thanks Millet, I'll stop using the iron. Do you know roughly how long this should take to correct given a normal fert schedule? I have been alternating between Miracid and a urea-free orchid fert. Both contain manganese. Is foliar worthwhile?

Dave that is a huge improvement in two months. It makes me worry less about the current state of my own. I realize things aren't terrible but I hate to see a decline of any sort in prime weather season.
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Sugar Land Dave
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Location: Sugar Land, TX Zone 9a

Posted: Sun 26 May, 2013 2:13 pm

Brian,

The grapefruit tree pictured above had no green leaves when I got it from Home Depot for 5 dollars. That was in February. So in three months it is much better.

You asked about foliar spray. I believe a micro-nutrient spray would be a great idea for your trees. Just be a little conservative since you have already used a soil fertilizer.

David
Wink

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brianPA2
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Location: Southeastern Pennsylvania (6b)

Posted: Thu 27 Jun, 2013 3:53 pm

Update - everything is doing much better.

The blood orange new growth droop recovered within hours and seems to come and go with the weather. Looks to be normal.

The limequat is greening up, though the oldest leaves seem to be permanently yellowed. It is now blooming profusely.

The satsuma dropped nearly all of its leaves but put out a ton of new leaves, some blooms, and still retained the four pea-sized fruits from before the leaf drop
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laidbackdood
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Joined: 05 Jan 2006
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Location: Perth.Western Australia.

Posted: Fri 13 Sep, 2013 3:23 pm

Seems like you dealt with them just in time and sounds a bit like what was happening with my trees(see "New Trees")
I reckon the combination of being root bound and being excessively wet was sending your trees down a slippery slope......no doubt you had a few mushy roots when you de potted them?
I am sure Millet spoke in the past of complete removal of medium and i am also sure it came back to my head...when i did all my transplants a few days ago.......its ok if you do this
1.remove old medium in luke warm water so as not to shock the roots.
2.Dont leave roots exposed to the air or sun(whilst sorting new pot etc)
3.Dont feed after transplant.
4.Keep out of the sun....put in shade.
5.Leave them to settle down.
6. Foliar feed is an option.
It seems like one plant had shock and dropped leaves but recovered and the others were fine was it? Some times you have to bite the bullet.....well done! Wink
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Millet
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Posted: Mon 16 Sep, 2013 5:25 pm

Bian, with the tree that you wrote about that had the dry looking leaves, but was in a fast draining medium, you can safely give the tree all the water you wish. Remember it is not the amount of water that causes damage, it is the lack of soil aeration that causes damage. A fast draining medium will always have enough aeration. A more frequent watering will solve that tree's problem. - Millet
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