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Citrus Growers Forum
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Questions for my new orchard
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dauben Citruholic
Joined: 25 Nov 2006 Posts: 963 Location: Ramona, CA, Zone 9A
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Posted: Tue 13 Jan, 2009 12:36 pm |
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Thanks. That was what I was thinking, but without knowing my rootstocks, it's nice to get a second opinion.
Is there anything that can't be grafted to a citrange? How is it as a rootstock?
Phillip |
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Laaz Site Owner
Joined: 12 Nov 2005 Posts: 5679 Location: Dorchester County, South Carolina
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Posted: Tue 13 Jan, 2009 3:16 pm |
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_________________ Wal-Mart a great place to buy cheap plastic crap ! http://walmartwatch.com/ ...
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dauben Citruholic
Joined: 25 Nov 2006 Posts: 963 Location: Ramona, CA, Zone 9A
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Posted: Sat 24 Jan, 2009 5:09 am |
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Here's my next questions:
1) If I want to convert a portion of my orchard to other cultivars and I cut the tree down to a couple of feet off the ground, I will be above the citrange rootstock and grafting onto the grapefruit. Are there any problems with this as far as fruit quality or graft compatability? The grapefruit would essentially be an interstock.
2) Is there any reason why I couldn't cut the tree down to the rootstock (lower than 2 feet off the ground) and graft onto it if I have some suckers growing on it also to keep the sap flowing?
3) Can I avoid cutting the tree down until the graft has taken? Say cut a "T" in the rootstock and insert a scion similar to veneer grafting?
4) For bark grafting, does the bark need to be slipping?
Thanks,
Phillip |
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citrusgalore Citruholic
Joined: 21 Dec 2008 Posts: 131 Location: Columbia, SC zone 8b
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Posted: Sat 24 Jan, 2009 11:20 pm |
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Phillip,
Why don't you check into a "D R mower? I've seen them advertised on tv
and they are supposed to be good for attacking small brush and tall grass.
As I remember, they have two large back wheels and have an attachment on the front that looks like a gigantic weed whacker. It is pushed along like a lawnmower.
Whatever you do, don't consider goats. When they clean up the brush and grass, they will eat ALL the leaves, etc. they can reach on your trees! You will spend a lot of days rounding them up to get them back into the fence...lol! _________________ A small piece of land with fruit trees and a garden allows one to live as kings and queens in times of trouble. |
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dauben Citruholic
Joined: 25 Nov 2006 Posts: 963 Location: Ramona, CA, Zone 9A
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Posted: Sun 25 Jan, 2009 1:36 am |
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citrusgalore wrote: | Phillip,
Why don't you check into a "D R mower? I've seen them advertised on tv
and they are supposed to be good for attacking small brush and tall grass.
As I remember, they have two large back wheels and have an attachment on the front that looks like a gigantic weed whacker. It is pushed along like a lawnmower.
Whatever you do, don't consider goats. When they clean up the brush and grass, they will eat ALL the leaves, etc. they can reach on your trees! You will spend a lot of days rounding them up to get them back into the fence...lol! |
You're the second person in two days who suggested that I look into a DR mower. I'll have to take a look.
Anyway, on the brush front, I had a blessing in disguise with respect to the weed clean up. 7 days after escrow closed, the bank who owned the property sent me an email that they were served notice for weed abatement and that they needed to clear the brush. Supprisingly, the bank said they would take care of it so they paid 5 guys for two full days to clear the lot ($2,200). The property now looks great, but the grass is now coming back quickly. I'm thinking about a tractor. There are several old Ford 9N's on Craigslist. I'd love to have a classic operating antique on the farm. With a ton of new growth on the trees, I might have a hard time fitting a tractor between the rows.
Phillip |
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Steve Citruholic
Joined: 10 Sep 2007 Posts: 253 Location: Southern Germany
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Posted: Sat 31 Jan, 2009 5:55 pm |
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Dauben,
even some ochards need to be replaced, and usually the trees were taken out and replanted.... but often replant actions wil get in difficulties, because the trees won't grow well. Usually the reason seem to be the difference in symbiotical microorganisms, like fungus close addicted to the former roots, some microbiological bacteria and microbiological insekts.... Citrus replant problems are well documented... and here the regrafting comes up.
Because letting the existing trees in ground, the replant problem won't occur.
In Spain a special grafting methode is used, usually it was developed for grafting walnuts, and is called patch garfating or "la plata".
To do, a double bladed knife is used, to cut a rectangular patch of barkwith a bud in the middle, and with the bark spadle the patch is remoded. On the stock tree, the same sized patch is cut and removed. Now the patch is inserted, tied with rubber or buding tape, sealed with some grafting wax or sealing film.... as the bud sprount, the main limbs on which the plates are grafted on, were cut off.... and now these patch spouts will esablish the new tree top.
And those topworkings, Dauben, I would recommend. You also can use clench graft or some bark grafts... _________________ Eerh, hmm, uuuh, oooh, just guessing |
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gregn Citruholic
Joined: 15 Oct 2006 Posts: 236 Location: North Vancouver, BC, Canada
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Posted: Sun 01 Feb, 2009 2:37 am |
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Daubin, you have Citrange for sure... Look at this link:
http://www.bugsforbugs.com.au/pdf/troyer_and_carrizo_citrange.pdf
Some of the California grown citrus I have has carrizo as a rootstock....
They are also quite hardy on their own - for those of us who live out of the citrus belt it may be worth trying.
How did they taste? or were they too bad to even try?
Greg _________________ Gregn, citrus enthusiast. North Vancouver Canada. USDA zone 8. I grow In-ground citrus, Palms and bananas. Also have container citrus |
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mrtexas Citruholic
Joined: 02 Dec 2005 Posts: 1030 Location: 9a Missouri City,TX
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dauben Citruholic
Joined: 25 Nov 2006 Posts: 963 Location: Ramona, CA, Zone 9A
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Posted: Sun 01 Feb, 2009 1:56 pm |
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Steve wrote: |
To do, a double bladed knife is used, to cut a rectangular patch of barkwith a bud in the middle, and with the bark spadle the patch is remoded. On the stock tree, the same sized patch is cut and removed. Now the patch is inserted, tied with rubber or buding tape, sealed with some grafting wax or sealing film.... as the bud sprount, the main limbs on which the plates are grafted on, were cut off.... and now these patch spouts will esablish the new tree top.
And those topworkings, Dauben, I would recommend. You also can use clench graft or some bark grafts... |
Thanks Steve,
I have a Tina patch budding knife. Once the bark starts slipping maybe I'll give it a try. I have plenty of trees to experiment with, so it'll be an interesting test.
Phillip |
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dauben Citruholic
Joined: 25 Nov 2006 Posts: 963 Location: Ramona, CA, Zone 9A
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Posted: Sun 01 Feb, 2009 2:00 pm |
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gregn wrote: |
How did they taste? or were they too bad to even try?
Greg |
They don't taste the best. Probably better than trifoliate, but it has a distinct odor also. My wife's uncle took a bite and decided to spit it out.
One thing about citrange that your website mentions is that it overgrows mandarin scions. I'm not sure what that means. Does it mean that suckers need to be trimmed or there's some incompatability between citrange and mandarins?
Phillip |
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dauben Citruholic
Joined: 25 Nov 2006 Posts: 963 Location: Ramona, CA, Zone 9A
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Posted: Sun 01 Feb, 2009 2:02 pm |
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I'm probably going to give it a try. Right now we have temperatures in the 70's-80's during the day and 40-50 at night. Does anyone know the magic temperatures for bark to start slipping? And how long do the temperatures need to stay in that range before the bark starts slipping?
Thanks,
Phillip |
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Steve Citruholic
Joined: 10 Sep 2007 Posts: 253 Location: Southern Germany
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Posted: Sun 01 Feb, 2009 5:23 pm |
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Dauben,
there is another topworking methode. I know it as patch grafting and in spain it'S called "la plata".
For that, the budders use plastic cutting template. So can cut allways a same sized patch, with a bud in the middle.
Also a two bladed budding knife fpr patch budding, as used in walnut budding, is often found an used.
With that from the limps of an old tree a bud is cut and the patch is removed from the wood with a bark spoon. Now this patch is inserted in the limbs of the tree in place, so the same size of bark patch is removed and thrown away. The patch from the scion tree is set in and fixed with budding tape, sealed with grafting wax of parafilm self-sealing tape...
After some weeks, the patch is grown in place, now the limbs were cut of and the spouting buds from the inserted patches replace the missing limbs and establish the new top...
So, that's even something one can try... in topworling. It was used in Florida topworking "Queen Pineapple" oranges to more promising varieties... _________________ Eerh, hmm, uuuh, oooh, just guessing |
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