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JoeReal Site Admin
Joined: 16 Nov 2005 Posts: 4726 Location: Davis, California
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Posted: Tue 20 Feb, 2007 3:07 am |
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I have some dormant T-buds that died after the arctic blast.
So far, was surprised to see the following summer and fall T-buds starting to sprout:
Just partial listing, I haven't checked all of my trees.
Neopolitana Satsuma
Miyagawa Satsuma
Silverhill Satsuma
Clementina Fina
Clementine Nules
Cocktail
Marsh
Sarawak
More EZ's Oro Blanco sprouting!
Red Valencia
Sanguina Doble Fina
Washington Sanguine
Interdonato Lemon
Mary Ellen Lime
Seedless Lemon
Dom Joao Valencia
Armstrong Satsuma
Spring Navel
Although I have some of them fruiting already, sometimes I have to regraft just for the sake of balance, and also if I like the variety over another, it will be regrafted to have more branches over the least preferred one.
Some of the buds, although they took and are still green, are being swallowed alive by the stock.
Will try to do some chip budding again and see if I can push the success rate faster. So chip budding would be done before the bark starts to slip. When the bark finally slips within two weeks, I will be switching over to T-budding or bark grafting or four flaps if I have the time.
Usually, persimmons will sprout first before I do the citrus budding, it seems that the persimmons are still soundly asleep while the citruses are waking up.
Finally, I broadcasted 21-7-14 fertilizer, lightly incorporate them, in anticipation for the last rains of the season. |
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bencelest Citruholic
Joined: 13 Nov 2005 Posts: 1596 Location: Salinas, California
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Posted: Tue 20 Feb, 2007 10:01 am |
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"So chip budding would be done before the bark starts to slip. When the bark finally slips within two weeks, I will be switching over to T-budding or bark grafting or four flaps if I have the time. "
Joe:
Can you do chip budding to Fuyu persimmons?
I am eager to try with the scions we got from the exchange. |
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mrtexas Citruholic
Joined: 02 Dec 2005 Posts: 1029 Location: 9a Missouri City,TX
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Posted: Tue 20 Feb, 2007 8:24 pm |
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Chip budding can be done for persimmons, pawpaw, etc, etc.
JoeReal, how did you get BC-1 satsuma(Texas variety) and Early St Anne satsuma(Louisiana variety) into California? |
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JoeReal Site Admin
Joined: 16 Nov 2005 Posts: 4726 Location: Davis, California
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Posted: Tue 20 Feb, 2007 9:00 pm |
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Sorry, I pulled the wrong listing of grafted citruses. I do some budding or grafting for friends that I visit all over, from the east coast to Canada and some I track in the listing to see the success rates, and sometimes cut and paste into my quick postings here without double checking if they are related to the title. Will update later as I inspect the yard this weekend. |
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JoeReal Site Admin
Joined: 16 Nov 2005 Posts: 4726 Location: Davis, California
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Posted: Tue 20 Feb, 2007 11:34 pm |
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bencelest wrote: | "So chip budding would be done before the bark starts to slip. When the bark finally slips within two weeks, I will be switching over to T-budding or bark grafting or four flaps if I have the time. "
Joe:
Can you do chip budding to Fuyu persimmons?
I am eager to try with the scions we got from the exchange. |
Benny, based on my experience, persimmons can be chip budded, and the best time to do that is in the Fall. Dormant chip budding of persimmons in late winter, I never had a success with that, so I abandoned that one. You can try, you may get better results than I do. But I would bark graft when the first tiny leaf on the branch has opened. So I patiently keep my scionwood in the fridge, holding myself with pure willpower from grafting them until they are ready in spring.
You can try a few, why not?
But the greatest advantage of bark grafting over budding is that, last year, I got high quality fruits and vigorous growth at the same season and I grafted that seaon, something that would be impossible with budding. |
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Skeeter Moderator
Joined: 23 Jul 2006 Posts: 2218 Location: Pensacola, FL zone 9
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Posted: Tue 20 Feb, 2007 11:50 pm |
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Hi Joe, Have you already started to force the buds or are they just starting on their own?
A few of the ones that I thought had taken on my lemon tree have not made it through the winter-- it seems like the bark just pulled away from the bud and it slowly died. I also am worried that some of the buds were blind buds-- that is something I did not know about until recently. I think I will wait a couple more weeks to start forcing mine. _________________ Skeet
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mrtexas Citruholic
Joined: 02 Dec 2005 Posts: 1029 Location: 9a Missouri City,TX
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Posted: Wed 21 Feb, 2007 1:51 am |
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If you look carefully you can see the blind buds. They will be a leaf petiole without a bud. |
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JoeReal Site Admin
Joined: 16 Nov 2005 Posts: 4726 Location: Davis, California
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Posted: Wed 21 Feb, 2007 2:25 am |
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Thia night, with a portable light, I checked my 50-n-1 tree, it seems to be 51-in-1 now. I've got the Kosher Grapefruit sprouting through the brown callous. I gave up on it last fall when it seemed to be swallowed. The brown callous seem to be superficial as i can rub it off to expose the green budwood underneath. |
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JoeReal Site Admin
Joined: 16 Nov 2005 Posts: 4726 Location: Davis, California
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Posted: Wed 21 Feb, 2007 2:31 am |
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Skeeter wrote: | Hi Joe, Have you already started to force the buds or are they just starting on their own?
A few of the ones that I thought had taken on my lemon tree have not made it through the winter-- it seems like the bark just pulled away from the bud and it slowly died. I also am worried that some of the buds were blind buds-- that is something I did not know about until recently. I think I will wait a couple more weeks to start forcing mine. |
I forced them last late summer but they went to sleep instead. Now they're doing it on their own.
I have experienced that earlier in my grafting spree, the bud that is even growing and then as the callous keeps on piling up, the bud is being pulled away from the cambium contact, and then dying slowly. They have taken, but some of those stems tend to pull away open the T-cut while the callous are developing. My solution was to tape with parafilm, then wrap with rubber band (except over the eye of the bud), and then wrap with parafilm again to protect the rubber band. This kind of T-budding is slower, but has helped minimize the problem you encountered.
I will try using the UV-resistant vinyl tape for chip budding and am practicing how to loop it quickly at the end so that I can unwrap it easily when the chip bud takes. I'll try to see if this has comparable success rates to T-budding, and besides, I get to wrap it only once, plus the vinyl tapes are way cheaper too.
Will post results here later this year.
Joe |
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JoeReal Site Admin
Joined: 16 Nov 2005 Posts: 4726 Location: Davis, California
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Posted: Wed 21 Feb, 2007 3:31 am |
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Results have been updated. Forgot to note that the Armstrong Satsuma came from Louisiana State University, propagated by UCR CCPP.
Also the spring Navel has been dormant for more than a year, and it decided to sprout last weekend!
Still more to come this coming weekend when I come home while there
s still daylight. |
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JoeReal Site Admin
Joined: 16 Nov 2005 Posts: 4726 Location: Davis, California
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Posted: Wed 21 Feb, 2007 3:34 pm |
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This morning I was happy to find budwood from Benny's neighbor sprouting at last. Must be a tangor type, but it is supposed to be good. Just 18 months more till fruiting! Thanks Benny! Thanks also to EZ for the other cultivars, especially the kieffer which is going strong even after the cold blast. |
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buddinman Citrus Guru
Joined: 15 Nov 2005 Posts: 342 Location: Lumberton Texas zone 8
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Posted: Wed 21 Feb, 2007 9:18 pm |
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The bottom 2 buds on a flush of growth will be blind buds. A blind will have no bud node. It is best to clip the lower 3 buds on a flush of growth and discard them. |
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